The specific Drywall Contractors Sacramento patching I recently did was to cover up the hole in the drywall that had to be cut to lower the piping that went to the kitchen sink. My wife finally got the sink that she wanted. It was nice in deep…heck, those that know me know how short I am…I could just about stand up straight in the sink and you couldn’t even see my head!! Okay, so that was a little bit of stretch, but the point is that it’s a very deep sink. In fact, the sink was so deep, that once the disposal was added, the piping that connected to it was now too high. Since there is no [cheap] technology that defies gravity, the only option was to cut into the wall and lower the pipe.
I will cover both the installation of the sink and the actual piping modification in separate posts. For now, we’re just focusing on fixing the drywall nightmare that we created to do these projects.
- Drywall Tape
- Joint Compound
- Wood Screws (#6 or #8, approximately 1″ long)(Note: Can use drywall screws, also)
- Orange Peel Texture (in can)
- Drywall (size will depend on hole)
- Some Type of Scrap Wood (I just cut some plywood)
- Drywall Saw
- Putty Knife
You will first take the drywall saw and cut out the debris. This is assuming you accidentally put something through the wall (like your fist, yeah, you know who you are). The drywall will cave in, but obviously won’t be a nice clean shape. So, start around the edge of the damaged area and just cut a square to remove the damaged drywall. I intentionally made the hole I was fixing. So, when I cut it, I just was very careful and saved the drywall I removed. If this is the case on your project, do the same, it will save you $10 or so on buying drywall. The smallest size that drywall comes in is an 8×2. There may be something different, but this is the smallest I know of. If you did accidentally make a hole in the wall, you will likely have to buy a sheet of this. It runs about $11 at Lowes. If you did have to do this, go ahead and measure your hole and you can cut the drywall to fit the area. Get it close, but it doesn’t have to be perfect.
Next, you want to cut you a piece of wood that is about as wide (need a little room on the sides to put your hand to hold in place while screwing) and is longer by approximately 2 inches on the top and bottom. Just imagine a rectangle positioned vertically over a square. Once this is cut, place in the hole and put a wood or drywall screw above the hole so that it catches the wood in the right or left corner. Do the same for the opposite corner and for both corners at the bottom of the hole. Now, you can place the piece of drywall that you cut (or saved) over the wood that’s now fastened to the wall. Just set in place and put four screws in the piece so that it fastens to the wood also
The hard part is basically done. At least the measuring, cutting and screwing! Now it’s time to make it unnoticeable. Now, take your putty knife and dig out a little joint compound. Press it into the cracks you see around the newly affixed piece of drywall. Once this is complete, you can take your drywall tape and cut into the lengths you need to cover all four sides of the cut. You want the tape to cover the cracks so that there is some tape on the wall and some tape on the new piece you just put in. By recommendation of my father-in-law, I got a small bowl of water and dipped the strips of tape in it before I applied to the wall. It seems to “gum” it up a little and helps it stick better. Plus, it helps the compound mesh better with the tape. After the tape is applied, simply start applying the compound to the wall. You want to spread it from about 3″ outside of your work area all the way to the inner edges of the tape. You want to be careful not to apply too much, as you do not want there to be a noticeable bulge in the area. Don’t be greedy with it either, it could have the reverse affect and dip in. Either way, you can always sand it if you add too much and you can add more if you don’t add enough. You will be able to tell.